This writing was accepted for publication in the 84 page perfect-bound issue... cc&d magazine (v212) (the September 2010 Issue) |
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Union of the Snake
Jason Marc Harris
When I heard from my old friend Paulo that he was finishing his graduate studies at the University of Central Florida in anthropology and that he would like me to accompany him to observe the folkloric practices of an almost unknown tribe in the Everglades . . . I was interested, to say the least! I drove down alone to Homestead, FL, which was where I’d agreed to meet Paulo before heading to Flamingo and then deeper into the swamps.
Paulo showed up at the Subway shop in Homestead wearing one of his in-your-face political shirts: a Native American warrior brandishing a spear and a scowl beneath an American flag with a pile of skulls on top of it. The words, “our country,” stood out in dark red blood-dripping letters beneath the flag. Paulo’s smiling chiseled face was a cheery movie-star contrast to the totem of political activism he brandished on that shirt.
“Glad to see you’re still militant,” I grinned and shook hands with Paulo.
After some small talk, Paulo gave me the lowdown about the trip.
“This trip isn’t just for the fun of gathering stories from old timers. There’s some adoption issues I’ll have to deal with while we’re there. Some complaints got made somewhere about disappearing kids. I’m sure it’s just some miscommunication. Also, there’s an environmental dispute. It’s bizarre: this tribe doesn’t want the pythons that have been overrunning the Everglades to be removed.”
“Why not?”
“Religious values.”
“This tribe is a real reclusive bunch,” Paulo continued. “They haven’t been in touch with the modern world much at all. We’re talking no cell phone coverage, no running water, no awareness of political events beyond what affects them locally.”
The sun was blazing hot by the time we entered the boundaries of the national park. I looked out at the waterlogged grasslands sprawling on the left side of the car but coming up around the bend was a section of somewhat firmer prairie—pine trees were sprouting in bristly clumps. And a swamp buggy was waiting with a National Park emblem on it. I know the Park Service blabs on about how those are bad to use for the environment, but they let us use it to get over a mucky section of land that brought us to a dock where there was a canoe waiting for us and a Native American guy who was fishing. He was a Miccosukkee and explained he did some boat maintenance for the Park Service. He looked real nervous when we talked about the Chazga-whatchamacallits and muttered something about “bad blood.”
Paddling in that dirty bronze water was almost refreshing: scooping up that brown thick stream like a spoon in some thick soup and feathering that paddle deftly—feeling like a pro or one of the natives—before reaching out for another deep stroke. Even though it wasn’t hot by Florida standards, I was sweating. The cotton shirt sticking to my back felt like a wet balloon that partly inflated with every movement I made with the paddle. The air grew heavier with a sulphurous stench as we plunged deeper into the mangroves.
There were a few startling moments on the trip, such as seeing a cottonmouth swimming along the shore, and then later a terrific splash announced the launching of several alligators into the water as we paddled by.
“Damn, Paulo, you don’t think they’ll ram the boat do you?” I gripped my paddle in readiness, prepared to smash the hard wood down on the nose of any nasty green snout that dared come rising up next to the boat.
“I’ve heard about that in mating season, which it is, but looks like they’re just going about their business. Just like us. Cruising along, not a care in the world. Harmony of nature, Clay, no worries.”
“You really believe in all that, huh?”
Paulo paused to raise his paddle with his right arm, and as he let it hang on the edge of the canoe, he patted his left hip with his left hand and pulled up his shirt to reveal the bottom of a sizable pistol.
“Sure do, and if things don’t get quite as harmonious as they should be, there’s the equalizer, baby.”
The next day as I paced outside the tent and snacked on one of the several power bars I had brought along, a stocky bald man with a goatee came slouching over towards us. His face was burned a rather comical shade of orange, that made him look like a tough pumpkin. I’ve noticed a lot of people in Florida have this odd orangish skin, maybe from some combination of sun damage and fake tan sprays, but this guy’s facial problems went to a whole other level. With each step he took, a new wrinkly ridge, fold, or pockmark caught the light of the morning sun.
Behind him about fifty feet back near the shore of the swamp by a camouflage-painted canoe stood what I suppose was his wife and child: a red-haired chubby woman who was both sunburned and angry-looking. The kid looked maybe three-months old.
“What’s up, brother?” He nodded his head as Paulo raised his eyebrows skeptically at the tough guy’s rattlesnake tattoos on his arms, which were prominently displayed because of the dirty sleeveless white t-shirt he wore.
“What’s up yourself? We’re on a trip.”
“Oh yeah man, we’re all on a trip. You here for the festival?”
“What do you know about that?” Paulo asked.
“Hey man, I’ve been coming to this Indian powwow for five years. I just wondered if you guys wanted to buy some decent herb.”
“No, that’s ok,” I said, wishing the guy would get out of my face.
“The Chazgas have some damn powerful shrooms. Some German doctor did studies on it. It can tear you up good. They like mixing it with the mary jane that I bring them. It’s one groovy festival let me tell you.”
“You’ve been staying at the village? Have you met a guy named Ezekiel Palataka?” Paulo asked. A mutual friend of Ezekiel and Paulo had been the one to let Paulo know that this weird festival in this remote village even existed. Ezekiel supposedly came back from the village once to visit Orlando, and then disappeared again.
“Yeah, I know Zeke. You’ll probably see him tonight at the mound dance.”
The paddling we did following this guy took us through some spots I would have thought were impassable, but our canoes slid right through the thick grass beneath the overhanging mangroves. My shirt was already stuck to my back with sweat, and my shoulders burned and ached from the renewal of paddling again, but finally we came to a virtual cavern of the twisted trees and ran aground.
After securing our boats, we followed Mr. Cheerful out through a muddy path that emerged in glorious daylight, and we saw the junky settlement that apparently qualified as a village. It was a combination of a restaurant I ate at once on an Indian reservation near Death Valley and a bunch of rejects from the Burning Man festival: you know, that bunch of performance-artist freaks and merchants who gather out in the Nevada desert once a year. Mr. Cheerful was just one of a few dozen leftovers from Mad Max or some other cheesy post-apocalyptic B-movie. The smell of cured meats, tobacco, and some sweet-and-sour odor wafted in the air—perhaps the famous shrooms?
I was glad to get away from Mr. Cheerful and the wacked-out white folks I saw lazing around and go to meet the mysterious tribesmen who were sitting out in the sun, soaking up some rays and smoking something or other in their pipes, as though they weren’t perpetually suntanned and stoned enough. “In-breeding” was the first thought that leapt to mind. Abnormally high foreheads and bony browridges seemed to be a requirement here. And such strange sunken eyes staring out of sun-damaged sockets. None of them seemed to blink.
All the people past about thirteen in this tribe had rough markings on their skin. Only parts of their arms and throats were visible beneath the loose-fitting, green-and-white clothes they wore, but I could see what looked like a row of dull red and black raised hard blisters formed into some pattern.
I whispered to Paulo, “What do these people do to each other, branding maybe?”
“Beats me Clay, maybe we’ll find out tonight.”
“At ye old mound dance huh?”
It turned out that there wasn’t too much to see in the village after all. Well, there were the junk-art sculptures of snakes and alligators, the drum circle where the white-trash druggies were swaying, and the alligator-wrestling arena, which was just an area of straw-covered dirt with a ring of tires around it. A muscular cracker-jack with a cowboy hat was drinking out of a vodka bottle and watching a couple of natives taking turns wrapping their arms around an alligator’s closed snout. The alligator seemed rather bored with the whole situation until suddenly it whipped its tail and raised a nasty welt on one of the native’s cheeks. The cracker-jack let out a loud “har!” Nobody was selling any hotdogs, popcorn, or alligator jerky, but it felt like somebody should be. The whole so-called village had all the class of an amateurish carnival in some back alley.
We walked in front of a hut that had red handkerchiefs tied to the posts that poked from the top of the roof. There was a porch of sorts: a raised platform over some lumpy logs that were set down deep in the earth.
“Looks like it’s the women’s retreat,” Paulo whispered.
Two men stood outside. There was nothing remarkable about them in their faded khaki shirts except that they were holding staffs with serpent-carvings. No doubt the staffs had some ceremonial function, and the patterns were actually pretty interesting: I recognized the diamond-back rattlesnake pattern on one staff, and it looked like some constrictor-type snake on the other because it was wrapped around what looked like a rather unhappy pig. I pointed at the staff with the constrictor-snake design and nudged Paulo.
“9000 psi, Paulo.”
“What’s that?”
“9000 pounds per square inch is how strong an anaconda squeezes.”
“If they play reptile trivial pursuit at the mound dance, you might be the winner Clay.”
I was about to come up with some brilliant retort, but as we passed directly in front of the entrance, my attention shifted to the glimpse I got of the interior. The door was ajar, and a rise in the breeze blew the door more fully open.
We both paused to stare inside the place.
I saw a fat old woman sitting on a chair in the middle of the room. She glared vaguely ahead while a middle-aged tall thin woman stood over what looked like a cradle between them. The thin woman had small hard eyes, and her bronzed face stretched into a series of cracks, and grinned as I peeked at them. Her throat had some of those dark blistered marks that other members of the tribe sported. Mr. Cheerful’s wife was inside there talking excitedly to the two women while Mr. Cheerful himself was counting money in his thick sun-cracked fingers outside the door in a corner of the porch.
The guards closed the doors to the building when I guess we had paused too long. One of them spoke in their language to Paulo, who nodded and replied in a way that the fellow seemed to accept because he smiled, then he laughed and said something that also made Paulo laugh. The husband didn’t even look up to acknowledge us. He was studying the bills like he was reading the future or studying the secrets of all creation.
Paulo and I walked on.
“That’s where the Chief’s daughters live, Clay, so no poking around like our crackerjack guide said earlier.”
“And what exactly is going on there anyway, huh?”
“It’s a retreat for the women like I said. Men aren’t supposed to go in.”
“Yeah, I get that, but where were the teen girls who are coming of age?”
Paulo hunched down and raised his hands dramatically, whispering, “I don’t know, Clay, maybe they’re kept in the dungeon till they have their first period? Maybe the old women feed them the flesh of gringos first.” Paulo grinned at me mischievously.
“Well, I’m not too excited about the female prospects here, I gotta say.”
“You may be right about that, that guy back there said the younger sister is too skinny and the older one is too fat, but if they were put together they’d be just right.”
“If those were the sisters, they’re both way too old,” I replied.
After passing several other awfully uncomfortable-looking decrepit huts—messes of splintery wood and aluminum—we came to a wide squat building.
“That’s the lodge, Clay. I’ll introduce you, but then I’ll need to get busy with this whole mediation thing.”
There were two more guards here, and they had the same style of staff. Unlike the previous guards, they chose to speak English.
“Go right in. Chief Ungriluzu is meeting with the elders.”
We entered the lodge and came into a room filled with rows of books, a library, though a small one. There was a curtain hanging down and from behind it we heard the chatter of the tribe meeting. I followed behind Paulo who bowed to the chunky grey-haired man in a flamingo-print shirt, Chief Ungriluzu. He rose from his thick oak chair and raised his hands.
“Ah Paulo, hello to Paulo and his friend. I would introduce you to my two daughters, but they are in the time of renewal.” The tribe elders smiled and laughed, exclaiming “hello Paulo! Hello friend!”
“This is Clay, from the university,” Paulo said, patting me on the shoulder.
“Clay, very good. And from the university—even better. One of my daughters, Trixla, she might go to university one day. Probably not the other daughter, Agru. But Trixla, she reads Shakespeare, ha! There is a library, you probably noticed, when you first came in. Please do read as much as you can of our tribe there. The world knows far too little about us. Now, Paulo has business here, but you go read and you might help with business in the future? Ah ha.”
“Thanks Chief,” I didn’t know what else to say. I know it sounds funny, but he just smiled and nodded, and pretty much waved me out. Before I walked out, I glanced over my shoulder and saw Paulo sitting down at the table as Chief Ungriluzu with his pink and red shirt billowing in front of him leaned back on his sturdy throne.
The library was quite a hodge-podge: hunting and fishing magazines, color atlases, encyclopedias, history books, photo albums, the works of Shakespeare, and some leather-bound volumes, that seemed to be the official history of the tribe. The biggest of these volumes had rattlesnake-skin as the binding. I admit I found this both creepy and compelling.
I sat and flipped quickly through the snakeskin book. The opening pages identified the book as somebody’s personal property: Dr. Cornelius Baxter, 1868.
It was some weird shit: diagrams of various reptiles, mainly snakes—especially diamondback rattlesnakes and some sort of massive prehistoric fossil Dr. Baxter called the Serpens Imperator, or as he wrote in parentheses, the “Ruler Snake.”